“I was thinking about a woman as an object of desire. We go to such lengths to adorn ourselves that we almost become our clothes or are taken over by them. This is a collection about excess – an exploration of ideals of beauty at their most extreme.” – Sarah Burton, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen
Every time my weary fashion friends return from Paris Fashion week they report back on the successes and failures of the catwalk displays. You can pretty much rely on the fact that they will gush endlessly about Alexander McQueen and will even confess to holding back tears when witnessing the overwhelming beauty of the show.
For the Spring/Summer Collection, via a film created by the young Sean Frank, the Alexander McQueen team have kindly given us a fascinating insight into the final nervous moments prior to the models stepping on the runway.The models sit patiently as their hair is intricately pleated painfully close to their skulls. Their newly woven heads are then expertly encased by the delicate yet alien lace headgear. We see the ever-evolving otherworldly creatures practicing their walks in the constricting skirts and Sarah Burton ensuring her masterpieces leave for the catwalk perfectly ready for the critical glare of the mass media. While viewing you can’t help but get swept up in the haunting romanticism of the designs with their perfect juxtaposition of moulding and structure with the mass layers or sheer chiffon, glistening embellishment and kinetic tassles, and the sumptuous hues of gold, nude, coral and lavender.
Despite the mammoth task and the huge amount of pressure placed on Lee’s successor, Sarah Burton has managed to maintain much of what we have come to expect and love about a McQueen show. However, innately or intentionally she has ensured there is a clear enough change to signal a new era for the brand. Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman summed it up perfectly… “she seems to take all his trademarks and somehow give them lightness.’ Perhaps its the feminine touch.
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